I've discovered now that my French is improving that only tourist suckers pay more than about 5-10€ for wine here unless it is absolutely the best vintage from the best grande cru classe for a special occasion. One French girl I was talking to was bemused that I thought the champagne from the houses like Mumm and Piper Hiedsieck was cheap enough to buy. She said we never buy it, even for Christmas its too expensive (at about 18-22€ a bottle!). Most of the people I've met have bottles from local producers for around 5-8€ for special occasions, friends over to dinner or to take to someone's house, but for day-day drinking they go the local producers market and buy in bulk, anywhere from 5-20 liters of Rose, Cabernet, semillon/Sauvignon etc for around 1.90-2.50€ a litre.
Finally I succumbed after the novelty of buying bottles in the supermarket wore off and visited the local producer for some Rose. I bought 5 litres for 1.95€ a litre! And it's really good. Mark has been stirring me about having a 'goon bag' in France, but if it's good enough for the wine savvy locals, it's good enough for me!
Just shows, always taste and don't be ruled by the price of wine in France. It's not a reflection of value often it's a reflection of the the awful market for wines and the massive supply, especially in the Bordeaux/Bergerac areas.
Also tried the product they sell at the beginning of harvest, it's the first press of the wine. I tried the Sauvignon blanc, it's quite sweet and a little fizzy because it's starting to ferment but quite refreshing and addictive, can't wait to try the red when they harvest in the next week or so.
We are visiting the Bergerac Area today which is in the Dordogne, home of the confit de canard and fois grois.
Hope to sample some great food and wines!
The story of one family and their journey to realise a love affair with France
Sunday, 30 September 2012
More French Bureaucracy!
The kids were desperate for a swim, so we decided to take them to the local municipal pool for a swim. Mark decided he would swim with them and I would sit on the side and watch and write in my journal. It took us a while to navigate the payment system and the rules around where you can and can't wear shoes and where to get changed and leave your clothes because you couldn't take anything into the pool area, it all had to be checked in. I decided I wasn't leaving the Longchamp behind the counter so mark and the kids went in while I went to the car to put my bag and marks camera away. When I came back in they obviously realized I intended to go in and watch. The man who ran the pool came over and explained in halting French/English that I was not allowed to go because I Had Clothes On!! Yes that's right, no bathers, no entry basically. it is prohibited Madame , he said, I am sorry.
He had to go and get Mark so I could tell him that I couldn't come in. I made the most of my time though and went shopping at the large Super Marche next door!!
Mark said even the kids doing learn to swim we're on their own, no parents. Mind you it has merit, all those days I've sweltered at the bloody Clarence pool it would have been nicer to be able to legitimately go and get a coffee and come back went they were finished!!
He had to go and get Mark so I could tell him that I couldn't come in. I made the most of my time though and went shopping at the large Super Marche next door!!
Mark said even the kids doing learn to swim we're on their own, no parents. Mind you it has merit, all those days I've sweltered at the bloody Clarence pool it would have been nicer to be able to legitimately go and get a coffee and come back went they were finished!!
Friday, 28 September 2012
photos of Smith Haut Lafitte
photos of Smith Haut Lafitte vineyard
We visited with my gorgeous french friend Sandrine who used to work here with her husband Jeremy, this photo was taken in the private cellar which was accessed by a secret staircase in the floor boards, very cool. The vineyard is just beautiful.
We visited with my gorgeous french friend Sandrine who used to work here with her husband Jeremy, this photo was taken in the private cellar which was accessed by a secret staircase in the floor boards, very cool. The vineyard is just beautiful.
photos
photos of Bordeaux and our fabulous mussels, the corn field next door being harvested today, grapes will start any day now, and lilys new vans and leggings.
Beautiful Bordeaux city and wonderful local markets
We drove to Bordeaux city this week and caught the tram the last few kms from the park and ride, the kids thought it was great. It's a great idea there are 3 or 4 park and rides connected by a tram to the city centre. It costs only 3.5€ to park for the day and catch the tram there and back. You can't ask for better value.
Just as well too because I bought myself an early Christmas present of a Longchamp bag from the new winter range. Very happy.
The kids went crazy, Lily bought some apple green vans sneakers and some H&M leggings she saw in French Grazia magazine. Liam bought a watch. Even daddy got into the swing at his favourite sports shop, Decathalon.
The kids had a school excursion sheet to complete which they did while we had a well earned coffee. They also had a carousel ride on a really beautiful old carousel. It is an absolutely beautiful city probably my favorite after Paris.
Once back, we went to. Few local markets. Nearby Branne is a beautiful little town with a fab market. We bought a kilo of mussels for 4.70€ and some great crusty bread, at home we cooked them up with white white, cream, and shallots from the market. They were to die for, even Mark and Liam ate them in the end. Washed down with some local rose which I bought for 1.96€ per litre, it was perfect.
We are getting in the swing of market life now and buying food fresh to eat as we like rather than large shops for a whole week. There's a market within 5-10 Kim's pretty much every day so it's pretty easy to eat fresh.
Next week it's down to Spain for a couple of days to Bilbao and overnighting in St Jean de Luz so hopefully the kids will get to enjoy a real beach!
Will try and put some photos of Bordeaux etc.
Just as well too because I bought myself an early Christmas present of a Longchamp bag from the new winter range. Very happy.
The kids went crazy, Lily bought some apple green vans sneakers and some H&M leggings she saw in French Grazia magazine. Liam bought a watch. Even daddy got into the swing at his favourite sports shop, Decathalon.
The kids had a school excursion sheet to complete which they did while we had a well earned coffee. They also had a carousel ride on a really beautiful old carousel. It is an absolutely beautiful city probably my favorite after Paris.
Once back, we went to. Few local markets. Nearby Branne is a beautiful little town with a fab market. We bought a kilo of mussels for 4.70€ and some great crusty bread, at home we cooked them up with white white, cream, and shallots from the market. They were to die for, even Mark and Liam ate them in the end. Washed down with some local rose which I bought for 1.96€ per litre, it was perfect.
We are getting in the swing of market life now and buying food fresh to eat as we like rather than large shops for a whole week. There's a market within 5-10 Kim's pretty much every day so it's pretty easy to eat fresh.
Next week it's down to Spain for a couple of days to Bilbao and overnighting in St Jean de Luz so hopefully the kids will get to enjoy a real beach!
Will try and put some photos of Bordeaux etc.
Friday, 21 September 2012
visit to Smith haut Lafitte
Today we visited a vineyard Smith Haut Lafitte, one of the best vineyards in Bordeaux in the Passac Leognan region. the vineyard is spectacular and the wine is fantastic - but at 85 euros for a bottle of white - it should be!! After the visit we went to a nearby town and had lunch in a little restaurant. The Plat de Jour was 14 euros an adult and 7.50 a child for 3 courses. Mine included fois grois, confit de canard and a desert tasting plate with bread for the meal and a half carafe of local rose. the total was 53 euros for the 4 of us. Amazing value. The fois grois was amazingly good. Its fabulous when find little places like this in the middle of nowhere here.
Yesterday we had a tasting at a little family vineyard called Chateau Maryland. It was fantastic red wine all biodynamic - guaranteed not to give you a headache! 5 euros a bottle. The winemakers daughter is growing truffles so we had a look at her garden and they gave us a summer truffle which are gong to try for dinner tomorrow night.
All the locals we have met have been awesome, really friendly and happy to chat slowly with us so that we can understand.
Harvest is about the begin so hopefully we will have some awesome photos of harvest in the next few days or so.
Below is a photo of the little restaurant we had lunch at.
Yesterday we had a tasting at a little family vineyard called Chateau Maryland. It was fantastic red wine all biodynamic - guaranteed not to give you a headache! 5 euros a bottle. The winemakers daughter is growing truffles so we had a look at her garden and they gave us a summer truffle which are gong to try for dinner tomorrow night.
All the locals we have met have been awesome, really friendly and happy to chat slowly with us so that we can understand.
Harvest is about the begin so hopefully we will have some awesome photos of harvest in the next few days or so.
Below is a photo of the little restaurant we had lunch at.
Thursday, 20 September 2012
St Emilion
We visited St Emilion late in the afternoon on a stinking hot day. It was a big climb to the top of the village but the views are well worth it. It is such a beautiful village. we had a wonderful time walking around, had some great maccarons and ice cream and a nice cool glass of rose. We visited the Cave of an Australian guy who married a french girl and set up business - was nice to be able to speak freely for a little while. My French is improving rapidly and I can get myself out of trouble most of the time but could certainly do with further improvement. Will post some photos of St Emilion either below or on another page.
Monday, 17 September 2012
Here we are in Bordeaux
After an incredibly long 660+kms we are now in Bordeaux. Well, actually in St Terre, near St Emillion. French Grand Crus wine country. there are vines absolutely everywhere its amazing, every spare patch of ground has vines in it - mainly red around here. Our house for the next month is in the middle of corn fields and vineyards, right across the lane from the Dordogne River. Its absolutely delightful, if a tad rustic. There are black and white fig trees currently laden with fruit, persimon trees, walnuts, apples and of course the grapes, which are surprisingly deliciously sweet.
The kids are having a ball picking and eating the fresh fruit. This afternoon we are making fig jam and a fig tart. The views from the bedroom windows across the fields are amazing especially in the mornings with the fog raising off the River. The best view is probably of the rose garden through the toilet window!!
Yesterday we went to a nearby village to see the Maskerade - a wave which only occurs a couple of times a year which comes up the Dordogne River and at this village breaks into a series of surf able waves which all the locals take to with long boards, paddle boards and kayaks. It was really amazing to see a river as flat as anything one minute then a wall of people surfing it the next.
We are loving the local markets, they are amazing places for food, drink, culture and generally soaking up the joie de vivre of french provincial life.
The weather here in the South is brilliant. most days have been between 25-30 and the evenings are mild enough to sit outside until at least 9 when it gets dark.
We have started 'school' at home, today I was told I was a terrible teacher because I have no patience - which is probably true, and not the greatest of starts for day one. But, journals out of the way, this afternoons maths lesson will be jam making, followed by a couple of pages of workbooks. French lessons take place over breakfast each morning, or at the local boulangerie!!
Food and drink are incredibly cheap here. I'm finding it hard to avoid all the big name champagne brands because they are so cheap, but just as good are some local producers with bottles less than $5, and the Bordeaux Rose (also less than $5) is just to die for. We are pretty much living on various hams and salamis, cheese, baguettes and wine (for the children -= orangina is their addiction), and fruit from the garden and frankly, couldn't be happier.
I will put some photos on the next blog of the house and its surrounds and the fruit trees and if I can the Maskerade.
The kids are having a ball picking and eating the fresh fruit. This afternoon we are making fig jam and a fig tart. The views from the bedroom windows across the fields are amazing especially in the mornings with the fog raising off the River. The best view is probably of the rose garden through the toilet window!!
Yesterday we went to a nearby village to see the Maskerade - a wave which only occurs a couple of times a year which comes up the Dordogne River and at this village breaks into a series of surf able waves which all the locals take to with long boards, paddle boards and kayaks. It was really amazing to see a river as flat as anything one minute then a wall of people surfing it the next.
We are loving the local markets, they are amazing places for food, drink, culture and generally soaking up the joie de vivre of french provincial life.
The weather here in the South is brilliant. most days have been between 25-30 and the evenings are mild enough to sit outside until at least 9 when it gets dark.
We have started 'school' at home, today I was told I was a terrible teacher because I have no patience - which is probably true, and not the greatest of starts for day one. But, journals out of the way, this afternoons maths lesson will be jam making, followed by a couple of pages of workbooks. French lessons take place over breakfast each morning, or at the local boulangerie!!
Food and drink are incredibly cheap here. I'm finding it hard to avoid all the big name champagne brands because they are so cheap, but just as good are some local producers with bottles less than $5, and the Bordeaux Rose (also less than $5) is just to die for. We are pretty much living on various hams and salamis, cheese, baguettes and wine (for the children -= orangina is their addiction), and fruit from the garden and frankly, couldn't be happier.
I will put some photos on the next blog of the house and its surrounds and the fruit trees and if I can the Maskerade.
Friday, 14 September 2012
Ille de France and Giverny
We have been visiting parts of ille de France and giverny in normandy. Fabulous beautiful places and great cider too. We went to a butterfly farm and to Monets garden. Will try and post photos in the next day or so. It is really quite easy to get around and we are seeing a lot of beautiful villages and drinking a lot of beautiful wine and cider and eating far too much amazing cheese and bread!,
The kids are loving it but we really need to start them keeping their journals and doing some work - not everyone can holiday all of the time!!
My French is rapidly improving and have been able to converse entirely in (simple) French in shops and cafes so far. The children are starting to get over their embarrassment and using French words very carefully.
A multicultural (mainly African and Moroccan) market is on the cards tomorrow afternoon then Bordeaux on Saturday for a month.
Will update with photos ASAP.
The kids are loving it but we really need to start them keeping their journals and doing some work - not everyone can holiday all of the time!!
My French is rapidly improving and have been able to converse entirely in (simple) French in shops and cafes so far. The children are starting to get over their embarrassment and using French words very carefully.
A multicultural (mainly African and Moroccan) market is on the cards tomorrow afternoon then Bordeaux on Saturday for a month.
Will update with photos ASAP.
Tuesday, 11 September 2012
We are finally here!!
After an incredibly long and difficult flight we are finally here. Qantas and air France were fantastic. Customs in Singapore not so much- they confiscated our duty free vodka because it hadn't been sealed properly. Not happy Jan!!
Luckily though alcohol is so cheap here we have managed to get by!
Collecting the car was easy and it's awesome. Don't quite now how the old Camry will feel after 3 months or so in a new Peugot!
The weather has been warm and we spent the first night on the terrace with French champagne and Belgian beer, baguettes, cheese, meat, duck rillette, fantastic!
Thank goodness for McDonald's. Free wifi and Skype are wonderful things when you are this far from home.
Ordered my first coffees and kids drinks in French successfully. Language skills are already improving!
Off now to explore the lovely village of Bonnieres. Catch you all later.
Luckily though alcohol is so cheap here we have managed to get by!
Collecting the car was easy and it's awesome. Don't quite now how the old Camry will feel after 3 months or so in a new Peugot!
The weather has been warm and we spent the first night on the terrace with French champagne and Belgian beer, baguettes, cheese, meat, duck rillette, fantastic!
Thank goodness for McDonald's. Free wifi and Skype are wonderful things when you are this far from home.
Ordered my first coffees and kids drinks in French successfully. Language skills are already improving!
Off now to explore the lovely village of Bonnieres. Catch you all later.
Friday, 7 September 2012
Well, this is it.l.l.l.
All set, only two sleeps to go.. Packing almost done, house sitting arrangements sorted, house pretty much cleaned etc etc. all that's left now is a farewell party tomorrow and we are off!!
Must admit to feeling a bit nervous, it's a long time to be away for a total control freak. I'm having trouble coping with not being able to predict and control everything that might happen while we are gone.
The kids are excited though and I'm sure it will hit me when we leave.
For anyone who is interested we booked the farmhouse with the huge grounds in Provence here's hoping its as good as it looks!
Have booked lovely gite in the Somme near villers bretoneux for remembrance day.
First though, pick up the leased Peugeot and head to Mantes-la-Jolie north west of Paris to stay with our wonderful French friends for a few days before heading to Bordeaux for a month with our friends from here.
Will post an update when we get settled.
Must admit to feeling a bit nervous, it's a long time to be away for a total control freak. I'm having trouble coping with not being able to predict and control everything that might happen while we are gone.
The kids are excited though and I'm sure it will hit me when we leave.
For anyone who is interested we booked the farmhouse with the huge grounds in Provence here's hoping its as good as it looks!
Have booked lovely gite in the Somme near villers bretoneux for remembrance day.
First though, pick up the leased Peugeot and head to Mantes-la-Jolie north west of Paris to stay with our wonderful French friends for a few days before heading to Bordeaux for a month with our friends from here.
Will post an update when we get settled.
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